The mighty Fraser River appears into full view as you reach the end of Big Bar Ferry Road. (Richard McGuire Photo)
This is Part 4 about my trip to British Columbia’s interior temperate rainforest and the Cariboo region. See also Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3.
When most people think of the Fraser Valley, they think of the wide plain stretching between Hope and Vancouver.
Or perhaps they think of the Fraser Canyon where the mighty river flows through a gorge between Lillooet and Hope.
My trip in June through Central B.C. took me through other Fraser Valleys on the river’s long journey from its headwaters near Mount Robson, northwest up the Rocky Mountain Trench, and south from Prince George past Quesnel and down to Lillooet.
For the last part of my trip, I drove south from William’s Lake to Clinton and continued southwest to Downing Provincial Park on Kelly Lake where I camped two nights.
From there, I took several excursions.
On the first evening, I took the rough and narrow Pavilion-Clinton Road up a series of wooded hairpins to a plateau where cattle grazed. As I got closer to Pavilion, a First Nations community, the wooded landscape gave way to dry valley slopes covered in sagebrush, not unlike the landscape around Osoyoos.
It was a rough road, and not wishing to return the same way, I opted to take Highways 99 and 97 back to Clinton, a much longer route than the journey over the mountain.
The second day was my Fraser adventure, following old dirt roads that paralleled the Fraser and emerged in its rugged valley, carved by millennia of water and glacier flow. It was just as common to see hoodoos as rocky crags.
The road followed some of the alternate routes of the gold rush years, passing through ranches and such First Nation communities as Canoe Creek, Dog Creek and Alkali Lake. Many of the log buildings dated back to the 19th century.
Much of the country was wide and open and sparsely populated, but scenic nonetheless.
It was a drizzly and overcast day, but the clouds didn’t really open up until I passed Alkali Lake. By Williams Lake, the sun was shining again, and the storm passed over.
I retraced my route down Highway 97 from Williams Lake to Clinton, making a detour to Chasm Provincial Park just as the light was turning golden.
I’ll tell what happened there in my next and final installment.
Here’s my route on Google Maps.
I camped two nights at Downing Provincial Park at the end of Kelly Lake, southwest of Clinton, B.C. (Richard McGuire Photo)
I toon an evening drive up a steep mountain on the Pavilion-Clinton Road, arriving in cattle-grazing lands at the top. The road was narrow and rough, with occasional mud bogs on the roadway. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The landscape along the Pavilion-Clinton Road changes dramatically. As you get closer to Pavilion, the forests give way to sagebrush. (Richard McGuire Photo)
At the First Nations community of Pavilion, you descend to Highway 99. The trip back to Downing Lake Provincial Park is much longer by the highway route. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Traveling north on Jesmond Road from Downing Lake Provincial Park I passed a small pond. The weather was damp and drizzling. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Continuing up Jesmond Road, I passed this little cabin with moose antlers above the door. Judging by the undisturbed vegetation, it was vacant. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Circle H Mountain Lodge on Jesmond Road has a small stagecoach near its entrance. It’s one of several guest ranches catering to those who like the outdoors. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A log building stands by Jesmond Road. Judging by the doors, it looks like a work shed. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Jesmond was originally settled in 1870 and called Mountain House. It had a general store and post office. The post office and store are long gone, and now it’s Coldwell Ranch. (Richard McGuire Photo)
North of Jesmond, the Big Bar Ferry Road turns west and continues down to the Fraser River. The land is rocky. (Richard McGuire Photo)
North of Jesmond, the Big Bar Ferry Road turns west and continues down to the Fraser River. The land is rocky. (Richard McGuire Photo)
As you travel west on Big Bar Ferry Road, the forest gives way to drier sagebrush landscape. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Big Bar Ferry Road winds down a valley to the Fraser River. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A slope above Big Bar Ferry Road is covered with burned trees from a past forest fire. In the gullies, living trees are growing. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Dry rocky slopes line the valley as you approach the Fraser River on Big Bar Ferry Road. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Near the bottom of Big Bar Ferry Road, a dry streambed widens into a small canyon. (Richard McGuire Photo)
As Big Bar Ferry Road reaches the Fraser River, the dry landscape shows areas of green cultivated and irrigated fields. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Big Bar Ferry takes vehicles across the Fraser River. The ferry is a “reaction ferry,” meaning it is guided across the river by an overhead cable and its power is provided by the river’s current. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Big Bar Ferry takes vehicles across the Fraser River. The ferry is a “reaction ferry,” meaning it is guided across the river by an overhead cable and its power is provided by the river’s current. (Richard McGuire Photo)
North of Jesmond, the Big Bar Ferry Road turns west and continues down to the Fraser River. The land is rocky. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A log shed stands next to Big Bar Ferry Road near the intersection with Jesmond Road. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Continuing north up Big Bar Road, you pass though forests and meadows amidst mountains. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The OK Ranch on Big Bar Road was established in 1859 and is one of B.C.’s earliest ranches. It also served as a roadhouse in its early days. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The OK Ranch on Big Bar Road was established in 1859 and is one of B.C.’s earliest ranches. It also served as a roadhouse in its early days. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The rusty remains of an old car have found a resting place next to Poison Lake Rd. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The intersection of Poison Lake Road, Meadow Lake Road and Dog Creek-Canoe Creek Road could be a confusing spot without the help of this sign. R.S.E.S is Rosie Seymour Elementary School in Canoe Creek. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Dog Creek-Canoe Creek Road cuts through a gap between rock formations. (Richard McGuire Photo)
After passing the First Nations village of Canoe Creek, you pass this ridge, an esker formed by glaciers. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Shortly after Canoe Creek, you pass over a ridge and view the road ahead that descends to the Fraser River. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Shortly after Canoe Creek, you pass over a ridge and view the road ahead that descends to the Fraser River. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Shortly after Canoe Creek, you pass over a ridge and view the road ahead that descends to the Fraser River. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Dog Creek-Canoe Creek Road contiunes northward parallel to the Fraser River. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Dog Creek-Canoe Creek Road contiunes northward parallel to the Fraser River. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Gang Ranch Road descends to the Fraser River, crossing on the only bridge between Lilooet and Highway 20 from William’s Lake. To the west is the Chilcotin. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Hoodoos are visible in the Fraser River Valley as Dog Creek-Canoe Creek Road climbs out of the valley. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Hoodoos are visible in the Fraser River Valley as Dog Creek-Canoe Creek Road climbs out of the valley. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The Dog Creek Dome is a basalt escarpment visible on the climb to the First Nations village of Dog Creek. (Richard McGuire Photo)
I was photographing the landscape at an overlook above Fraser gorge when I startled this bighorn ewe. She sailed over a barbed wire fence like she’d done it before. This was near Dog Creek, BC.
The Fraser River when viewed from above is a vast feature of the landscape. It separates the Coast Mountains from the vast expanses of the Interior Plateau. The sandy valleys are the result of millennia of erosion. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A log barn at Alkali Lake Ranch sits by the road as it starts to rain. (Richard McGuire Photo)
